Tuesday, June 18, 2013

A Dream Deferred... No Longer


What happens to a dirtbag dream deferred?


 Does it dry up, like a discarded orange peel in the sun, baking in the trampled desert crust?
Photo Carrie Albrecht

Does it fester like a granite-grain gobie and then run?

Does it stink like rotten resoled shoe leather?

Or crust and sugar over
Like a punctured GU packet, squished in the bottom of a pack?

Maybe it just sags
Like a harness laden with too many wide cams.

Or does it explode?

-My apologies to Langston Hughes


Photo Blake McCord
The ideals of the imaginative modern climber are perhaps separated by a few degrees from those of most of our society.  A few themes are common to the dreams of both; we all want freedom, adventure, and happiness.  However, the physical manifestation of the dirtbag dream looks, tastes, and smells a bit different than the picture of the typical American Dream.  The freedom we seek might be found 1,500 feet up a granite wall with two Clif Bars and half a liter of water left and 1,500 feet to go.  Our desire for adventure makes the comforts of a bed, a shower, and NetFlix pale in comparison to a Thermarest, baby wipes, and a sunset over a different horizon every night.  The dirtbag dream is our version of the American dream, heated cherry red, hammered straight, and tempered by the fires within that drive us to climb. 

Vision Quest; often used by climbers to describe a climb demanding exceptional commitment physically, mentally, and sometimes even spiritually.  This use of the term is certainly valid, but may perhaps brush over some the original meaning and chief implications of a true vision quest.  In my mind, this important ritual has several names, the vision quest, the coming-of-age, and the rite of passage.  I am no expert in the coming-of-age rituals of any society, but it seems that the basic framework of a vision quest, rite of passage, or coming-of-age is made up of three key elements.  First, the ritual centers on self-reliance, which may be forced through a solitary journey or other means.  Second, the individual must be challenged or tested in some way.  Finally, the ritual provides something important for the formation of a healthy whole person. 

Photo Carrie Albrecht
The dirtbag rite of passage is often accomplished through an extended road trip.  Life on the road forces the first important element of self-reliance, which can be accomplished through the solo quest or the dual endeavor of road trip with a partner.  A rite of passages’ second element, the challenges and testing experiences, of a life travelling and climbing are many, both on climbing days and life-maintenance days.  While a few dedicated ‘lifers’ manage to live the dirtbag dream well into retirement age, many climbers find themselves pulled back and transition to a more conventional life.  Whether their road trip lasted six months or ten years, the climbers I know who have chased this dream regard it as an integral, invaluable, and life-changing experience that fulfills the third element of the rite-of passage ritual. 

Embarking on a rite of passage road trip is not for everyone, and I don’t mean to depreciate those whose lives are incompatible with life on the road or choose not to pursue it, rather I simply seek to provide the backdrop and reasoning behind my personal journey,a journey which is about to begin. 

I have a great job in a near-perfect town, amazing friends, and am surrounded by excellent climbing, but something has been tugging at me, nagging me to step out of my comfortable path.  I feel that I have never truly pursued something whole-heartedly, and for most of my life I have not had a singular passion worthy of a focused dedication.  Climbing has changed that for me. 

The path ahead of me is dark and uncertain, and that’s exactly the point.  I don’t know where it will lead or how it will work out, but I need to jostle the wagon wheel of my life out of its entrenched groove before the rut becomes too deep to escape.  I have been provided with a great opportunity, financially, relationally, and personally, I am ready to embark.

My plan has a lot of flexibility embedded but there are a few essential ingredients.


1. No fixed address: I’m out of my apartment and into the Toyota Sienna. Selling all possessions that don’t fit in the van (with a few exceptions thanks to my sister’s spacious home) has been tough, but freeing.

2. No full-time employment. I am planning to leave my job with the USGS so I can travel without the weekend warrior constraints.

3. Climb and learn. I want to see what I am capable of as a climber and as a person. Testing myself physically and mentally are top priorities.


My dream? I’m not certain what it actually is, and I think is a large part of the motivation for pursuing the extended road-trip of passage. I owe much to the encouragement of my friends, specifically Eric, Michelle, Darren, Angela, and Carrie. Without their prodding I’d probably be pursuing a permanent position in my current job rather than setting out to find what I really want. My dream is uncertain, but if deferred, I’m afraid it, or I, might explode.

There are a lot of ideas fermenting and brewing in my mind on goals, side projects, and van life. Stay tuned for upcoming posts on my van and the plan.






Strong Medicine and Tasty New Photos

JJ Schick catching the sports action of Joel Unema on the second ascent of
Pressure Drop 5.12+
Photo Wade Forrest



Squeezing the prow on
Donald Duckin' It 5.12d
Photo Blake McCord
I've written previously about how much I love the Oak Creek Waterfall and how influential it has been in my climbing.  The past year has been one of great change, both for me and for the Waterfall.  There has been a wave of new development, opening many new hard lines, a fresh crew of young climbers has sprouted up and begun sampling the fruits of the Waterfall, and the imposing reputation of the crag has begun to change.  I had a chance to shoot a few of the new routes with Blake McCord a couple weeks ago and couldn't help but share some of the new photos plus a few others I stole from MountainProject.

 Around a year ago, I had my first taste of establishing new routes there, beginning with Alex Kirkpatrick, establishing the mental testpiece Walking Far From Home 5.12-.  A few months later Dave Bloom and John Crawley began a new wave of development and I jumped on board!  Just this season, Dave and John established and impressive list of FA's up there, several of which I have had the pleasure of climbing for the second ascent.
Staring down the crux on the second ascent of
 Donald Duckin' It 5.12d
Photo Blake McCord

Comin' in Hot 5.12a
I'm on my Bike 5.11
Wasp Whisperer 5.11
Wolverine 5.13-
Terminal Mocha 5.11
What Are You On? 5.12b
Inz and Outz 5.12c
In A Blunt 5.12-
Donald Duckin' It 5.12d
A White Bread World 5.11









My good friends and some of Arizona's most prolific route developers JJ Schlick and Wade Forrest put up a handful of exceptional routes as well!

No Utopia 5.11+
Aquarius Rising 5.11
Darkest Hour 5.11

Joel Unema pulling the roof on the FA of Follow your Doubt 5.12
Photo Blake McCord
I also had a chance to put up a few of my own routes with John, Dave, JJ, and Wade and made the FA of the following:

Slaughterfall  5.12
Suzie and Ishmael do the Nasty 5.12+
Broken Chain 5.12
Follow your Doubt 5.12

In the past year the crag has grown and matured, and a new crop of enthusiastic young climbers are cutting their teeth on the classic testpieces of the Waterfall.  It has been inspiring to watch Mike Broad, Casey, Kevin, and Robbie pushing themselves and showing the Waterfall some love.  The Waterfall is a great area to hone gear climbing skills and sharpen a climber's mental edge.  It was pivotal in my development as a climber, and it is great to see others attending school in the basalt classroom.




Jonathon Mosher arranging gear before pulling the roof on
No Feelings 5.10+
Photo Heather Mosher
Matt Swartz considering his options on
Walking Far From Home 5.12-
Photo Joel Unema

The number of 5.10 and 5.11 climbers venturing up to the waterfall has swelled in the past few years, and it is great to see newer climbers making the hike up to sample some of the finest intermediate level gear climbs around.  A few years ago, it seemed that the Waterfall had a reputation as a hardman crag, fraught with peril from rockfall and home to difficult and scary climbing.  With the passage of a few years, more and more climbers have been giving it a chance and braving the approach and rockfall.  Many who have taken a chance and tasted the strong medicine of the soaring basalt pillars are hooked and have acquired the taste for single-pitch adventure cragging!  

I have tasted the medicine, swallowed the pill, and become dependent   The strength of my dosage has increased, the frequency of use has become obsessive at times, and even after repeating all the established lines, I crave more.  The cracks will get thinner, the gear will get smaller, and the climbing will get much much harder, but I'll be scrambling up there, braving the poison ivy, swarms of bees, rattlesnakes, raging storms, and falling rocks to get my fix.
   Huge thanks to Blake McCord for shooting the great new photos of the new routes.  Check his work out at http://www.blakemccordphoto.com/ or on facebook at https://www.facebook.com/blakemccordphoto?fref=ts